Kärdla, the capital of Hiiumaa, is advertised as 'drowning in greenery' since there is no industry, and it has several parks and woods and a population of only 4,200. Because there are no blocks of flats and most houses have a garden, it gives the impression of being bigger than it really is. The local population could afford to live like this because of the success of the factory. Many of the wooden houses dating from the 1880s could only be sold to other workers, not to outsiders. The main square used to be dominated by the textile factory founded by the Ungern-Sternberg family in 1829. By 1845, around 500 workers were employed and Kärdla cloth had become famous around the Baltic. Many of the houses built for the workers are still inhabited. The factory was destroyed by the Russians as they retreated from the Germans in 1941. Only in 2000 was reconstruction completed and the building is now the Long House (Pikk Maja) which is the history museum of the factory and also an art gallery with temporary exhibitions. Behind the gallery is the former Swedish cemetery which was not harmed by any subsequent occupiers. The Lutheran church dates from 1863. The organ, built in 1904, was one of the last in Estonia to be ordered from Germany. Kärdla sensibly makes no concessions to tourists although they double the population to around 8,000 during the summer. Relaxation is the main ingredient of a stay here so those seeking a 'lively' holiday wisely stay away.Neil Taylor "Estonia. The Bradt Travel Guide", 2007 |
